Shanghai, a bustling city affectionately nicknamed “Magic City,” is a melting pot of diverse cultures and traditions. Its vibrant food scene is truly breathtaking, and its impressive skyline is a sight to behold. Below is a day-long itinerary for experiencing the best of what Shanghai has to offer.
As a scholar who spent some time in Shanghai, I gained insights into its unique identity. This cosmopolitan metropolis harbors a sense of mystery, a feeling of intrigue at the heart of its urban landscape.
In the early morning, when the sunlight is still gentle and serene, Shanghai reveals its quieter side. Street cleaners at the corner of Macau Road lean against their carts, chatting over meat buns, while elderly men cycle home with baskets full of fresh vegetables.
The subway system, which will later be packed like a sardine can with commuters, is still relatively empty, allowing early risers to navigate their journeys with relative ease.
Tianzifang, a historic lane filled with character, is a testament to Shanghai’s past. Its well-preserved Shikumen architecture houses an eclectic mix of creative stores and cafes. The decor of these small shops often leans towards a vintage, artistic aesthetic. Everything is small and narrow, with goods tightly packed onto wooden shelves. People move through the alleys in a lively, crowded flow.
Of course, Tianzifang is no longer a true lane in the traditional sense. It has been transformed into a commercialized tourist destination. They say that if you’ve experienced a real Shanghai lane, you’ll understand the city better when you visit other places. Shanghai’s lanes are its most authentic and open spaces, where people live their lives unfiltered. Even the beautiful women of Shanghai, dressed casually in their everyday attire, aren’t afraid to step out in their house slippers. They’re real. They’re genuine.
Shanghai is vast, and everywhere you go, there are people. Perhaps I’m just ignorant, but when I saw the chaotic crowds at Zara and H&M on Nanjing Road, as if they were having a clearance sale, and Starbucks and Haagen-Dazs filled to the brim like popular tea shops, I was speechless. Every popular spot has lines stretching out the door, but they’re orderly. Even without barriers, people form straight lines. Some say that Shanghai is a city that respects the rules of the game. You only need to do the legwork, not schmooze. If you queue up properly, you’ll eventually get served. HR managers are interested in your work ethic, not your connections. Be the best version of yourself, and you’ll find your place in this city.
As I walk, I pay attention to the trees lining the streets, always mindful of how they contribute to the unique character of each city. They make every stroll a distinct experience.
The French Concession is teeming with pedestrian-friendly avenues. The quiet plane trees lining the streets evoke a sense of romance, reminiscent of the stories by Zhang Ailing. The old buildings exude a historical charm, playing out a silent film of the past in every twilight and dawn.
Chen Danyan’s description of Huaihai Road in “Shanghai’s Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moon” was captivating, so one evening I ventured there with great anticipation. However, lacking her keen eye, I didn’t experience the city the way she portrayed it. But Huaihai Road is primarily a commercial street, and as we walked, we realized that its layout resembled Liberation West Road in Haikou.
Street food is the soul of a city. Qingtuan from Xinghualou, fresh meat mooncakes from Guangmingcun, Nanxiang steamed buns from the City God Temple, fresh milk pudding from Hongbaoshi… these legendary delicacies are Shanghai’s old establishments, each holding its own against the vast array of cuisines in the Magic City. They’re visually stunning and flavorful, and they come at an affordable price. Traveling opens your palate to new culinary experiences, and in Shanghai, I discovered the likes of qingtuan, fresh meat mooncakes, and even sweet zongzi, which I had only heard about before coming to this city.
As a child, I read Yang Hongying’s books and was fascinated by the lotus root cakes. “It’s a tricky dish to make,” she wrote. “You have to carefully place the ground meat filling into two pieces of lotus root, coat them in cornstarch and egg whites, and then deep-fry them until golden brown.” On the same day, I tried this dish at a Shanghainese restaurant on Huaihai Road. It was a delightful surprise, like finally completing a long-held wish.
The cityscape at night is like a dream, a world of enchantment that feels unreal. For a long time, I was captivated by the dazzling lights of the city, unable to tear my eyes away.
People enjoy looking down upon the city from a height, and I have stood on the observation decks of the Shanghai World Financial Center on the 118th floor and the Jin Mao Tower on the 88th floor. From these vantage points, I watched as the Oriental Pearl Tower shifted colors, and the lights of the roads and traffic wove together like a luminous web. The night sky above seemed cool and distant in comparison. Nearby, a small patch of darkness mirrored the stars above, revealing the faint outlines of a row of low-rise buildings. It was a stark contrast to the towering skyscrapers, like dark spots on the surface of a fried egg.
Only later did I learn that this was the infamous shantytown. Its residents live in the heart of a city where every square inch is valuable real estate, surrounded by countless high-rises. But their daily lives are still intertwined with the manual emptying of chamber pots… Life is a kaleidoscope of contrasts, both ordinary and extraordinary. I later found the perfect term to describe it: a blend of sophistication and grit. This is how I see Shanghai – a city of contradictions, a city that resonates with me deeply.
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