Hua Shan is a very famous mountain peak that enjoys immense popularity in China. It’s often featured in Jin Yong’s martial arts novels, where the renowned Hua Shan Sect and the legendary “Debate on Hua Shan” have been depicted, adding to its mystique. Hua Shan is also known for its unique and spectacular rock formations, making it a must-visit destination. Here’s a one-day travel guide to Hua Shan for you.
Not long ago, a friend of mine suggested we climb Hua Shan. Initially, I was quite apprehensive, knowing its reputation as the most dangerous mountain in China! Climbing Hua Shan is no easy feat. The ascent alone takes nearly ten hours of non-stop climbing, requiring immense stamina and endurance.
Almost every time I travel, I think about my father, a man who deeply loves traveling, a passion fueled by his adoration for the breathtaking landscapes of our country. I called my father, asking if he’d be interested in joining us. He immediately responded with the enthusiasm of a young man, echoing the ancient Chinese proverb, “He who has not been to Mount Hua is not a true hero!” (My father is nearly seventy years old). His fearless spirit deeply impressed me, instantly erasing any lingering fear in my heart.
The next day, we boarded a high-speed train in Xi’an, arriving at the North Hua Shan Station in about half an hour. From there, we took a taxi for another ten minutes to reach the foot of the mountain. Gazing up at the imposing and majestic Hua Shan, I was already brimming with excitement and eager to begin our climb. After having lunch at the foot of the mountain and stocking up on water and snacks, we set off at 8:30 pm…
The first checkpoint was Wu Li Guan (Five Mile Pass), aptly named after the five-mile stretch of relatively gentle uphill path. To conserve our energy, we moved slowly, occasionally encountering others on their way up or down the mountain. The ascending hikers were full of laughter and enthusiasm, while those descending wore expressions of fatigue and quiet contemplation…
Beyond Wu Li Guan, the number of hikers began to swell, mostly young people, including many couples. It was rare to see someone of my father’s age, making him a unique sight. He received praise from many youngsters, who marveled at his strength and resilience. Some even used his example to encourage their companions!
The Qian Chi Chuang (Thousand-Foot Ladder) is an unavoidable and treacherous passage during the climb. It’s a narrow crevice between two sheer cliffs, with steps carved into the rock and iron chains for support on either side. Looking up from below, it seems like a single thread connecting heaven and earth, hence its moniker, “The Throat of Mount Hua!”
When I reached the base of the Qian Chi Chuang, my father had already ascended. My other companion had fallen behind, lamenting the difficulty of the climb. Looking up from below, the path seemed impossibly steep, almost vertical, with only a narrow passage for one person. My legs felt weak…
I sat on the steps for a moment to rest. My companion eventually caught up, and we rallied our spirits, grasping the iron chains and pulling ourselves upward. The mountain was now swarming with hikers, so we couldn’t afford to stop. We encouraged each other, and as we neared the top, I looked back to take a picture. My heart nearly skipped a beat! One wrong move here, and everyone behind would fall. Thankfully, we all made it to the top safely…
Climbing a mountain is truly unlike any other journey. With a shared goal, you encounter strangers who become temporary allies, offering each other encouragement, support, and heartfelt words of encouragement. Throughout the climb, my father became a source of inspiration for countless young men and women!
He received a great deal of concern from others. Several young people offered to carry his backpack to lighten his load, but he politely declined every offer. I too repeatedly offered to carry his bag, but he refused. My father is a man who believes in self-reliance and unwavering determination!
After the Qian Chi Chuang comes the Bai Chi Xia (Hundred-Foot Gorge), a steep and treacherous path, though thankfully short. By the time we reached its end, our energy had significantly dwindled. Looking upwards, the North Peak of Hua Shan seemed tantalizingly close! The lights along the way twinkled like stars, creating a beautiful spectacle.
I thought we were almost at the summit, feeling a surge of triumph! Little did I know that a greater challenge awaited – the dreaded Lao Jun Li Gou (Laojun’s Pear Gorge).
By this time, my father had already reached the North Peak and was comfortably enjoying the mountain breeze! He looked like a sage, seated on the summit, surveying the world below, overlooking the masses!
Lao Jun Li Gou has two paths: one is a newly constructed set of steps, a bit gentler and less steep. I chose the other route, a path notoriously treacherous and steep. I thought, since I was climbing, I should take the most challenging route, immersing myself in the mountain’s true danger.
But Lao Jun Li Gou proved even steeper and longer than I’d imagined! So steep that you dare not look back, lest you feel like you’ll fall. It seemed to stretch endlessly, leaving you with a sense of being trapped, unable to reach the top. My energy was at its limit. I clung to the steps above, pushing off from the ones below, struggling to ascend. I truly understood what it meant to “climb a mountain.”
Finally, at 2:00 am, we reached the summit of the North Peak, meeting my father and my companion! The joy of achieving the summit completely overshadowed the exhaustion and aching limbs!
We sat beneath a large, fish-shaped rock on the North Peak, unpacking the dried beef and wine I’d brought along for the celebration. It felt like we were true adventurers, feasting on the summit of Hua Shan!
After resting and celebrating for about an hour on the North Peak, we continued our ascent, heading towards the East Peak…
It’s important to note that for those who’ve never climbed Hua Shan, reaching the North Peak is not the end of the journey. What lies ahead, the “Cang Long Ling” (Azure Dragon Ridge), “Ca Er Ya” (Ear-Scraping Cliff), and “Wu Yun Feng” (Five Cloud Peak), will make you question your life choices…
“Cang Long Ling” is one of the most famous dangerous paths on Hua Shan. It’s a ridge connecting the North Peak to Yu Suo Guan (Jade Lock Pass), with a narrow path along a knife-edge precipice, dropping off on either side into a bottomless abyss. Viewed from afar, it resembles a soaring dragon, hence its name, Azure Dragon Ridge!
“Ca Er Ya” is another treacherous path, unlike the Cang Long Ling. It has a sheer cliff on one side and a sheer drop on the other, with iron chains for support. Previously, the path was so narrow that hikers had to inch along, their faces almost touching the cliff wall. Hence its name, Ear-Scraping Cliff!
The climb was getting steeper and more dangerous! My energy was nearing its limit, and my legs were aching with every step. Yet, I pushed on, driven by my willpower, mechanically lifting my legs and dragging myself upwards. No one wants to give up when they’re so close to the summit!
More and more people were joining the climb! We continued to encourage each other, our ragged breaths a symphony of shared effort. It was a scene both inspiring and moving!
I was worried about my father’s stamina, but since he was ahead of me, I quickened my pace and tried to catch up. I asked passersby about him, and they assured me that he was doing well, exceeding even the young people. I was relieved to hear that!
I finally caught up with my father at the “Jin Suo Guan” (Golden Lock Pass). He was in excellent condition, better than me, better than my companion, and better than all the young people. I was both amazed and reassured.
At 5:50 am, we finally reached the summit of the East Peak, victorious! A sense of accomplishment and fulfillment filled our hearts. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate, and we missed the sunrise. So, around 6:30 am, we began our descent…
Compared to our spirited ascent, the descent was a complete disaster. We were utterly exhausted, disheveled, and defeated.
When we reached the North Peak from the East Peak, we had the option of taking a cable car down. However, my father, always thrifty and practical, thought it was too expensive. He always worries about money, even when it’s not his own. He’s always lived by the principle that parents should never burden their children. As for me, I felt that since we’d missed the scenery during our nighttime climb, I wasn’t so keen on taking the cable car. We also discovered a new, recently built path for descent, and ultimately decided to hike down…
However! However! This turned out to be a colossal mistake!
Looking down from above, the path seemed straightforward, leading to the base in what felt like a short distance. But this path was an endless succession of steps, with barely a flat surface. The steps were long and steep, incredibly difficult to navigate!
After descending less than halfway, my legs were screaming in agony! Add to that the lack of sleep the previous night, my energy was depleted. I was exhausted, my body ached, and the descent seemed bottomless. Everyone regretted not taking the cable car, jokingly blaming the path for deceiving us.
My legs grew increasingly sore, and every step felt like torture. We weren’t in the mood for jokes anymore…
My father began experimenting with different descent techniques, sometimes walking backwards, sometimes sideways, sometimes even sitting down. But no matter what, his legs ached unbearably…
Finally, after incredible effort, we reached the parking lot at the foot of the mountain at 12:40 pm, a journey that took nearly six hours. Everyone’s legs were shot, every step a painful reminder of the ordeal.
Silence fell upon us. We had no words. The joy and sense of accomplishment from reaching the summit had vanished, replaced by exhaustion, frustration, and weariness. As we parted ways, no one spoke, a bittersweet farewell.
I know, though, that this was just a fleeting moment. It will become a cherished memory, a significant chapter in the story of my father and me. Indeed, every time we recall it now, we laugh together.
The next day, my father wrote in his travel journal, “My journey to Hua Shan fulfilled a lifelong longing, a dream realized.” He was deeply moved.
I’d like to say that it’s me who is more moved. My father has never asked for much, never demanded anything from me.
He has given everything to me, to us, his whole life! A father’s love is silent, yet immense.
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