Lanzhou is a city renowned for its iconic Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles, known throughout the country. This influence is undeniable, and the noodles truly are delicious. Read on for a comprehensive guide to experiencing Lanzhou.
Departing from the capital, I traveled through Shanxi, crossing the Luliang Mountains, then over the Yellow River, through Shaanxi, and into Ningxia. Finally, I arrived in Lanzhou after a brief stop in Yulin, Shaanxi, the journey feeling like a dream. I was now in the Hexi Corridor.
Upon seeing the toll station with its abstract eagle, emblazoned with the word “Gansu”, it became real: I had reached the west, the west of the People’s Republic.
Lanzhou is the capital of Gansu, the starting point of the Lanzhou-Xinjiang Railway, a transportation hub in the west. Prior to reforms, the city was also the headquarters of the Lanzhou Military Region.
The Jiuquan Satellite Launch Center, the exquisite grape wine in jeweled cups, the brilliant Dunhuang culture, and the Flying Horse of Gansu unearthed in Wuwei – all are symbols of Gansu’s pride.
Heading west to Lanzhou was the obvious choice.
I arrived a little later than planned. The peak tourist season meant hotels were scarce, but luckily I had secured a reservation online at a reasonable price. I asked the hotel owner about things to see in Lanzhou.
Serendipitously, I met a talkative local, originally from another city but now doing business in Lanzhou. He said:
“It’s the perfect time to see the Yellow River Iron Bridge at night. It’s the symbol of Lanzhou. You really should see it. You’ll regret it if you leave tomorrow. So, dinner can wait, but the scenery can’t be missed. Let’s put our appetites on hold for now.”
Our stomachs were rumbling, and noticing our predicament, the owner continued: “There’s a famous snack street near the iron bridge, offering a feast of Northwest flavors. Perfect! Food and fun – what’s not to love?” Quickly packing our belongings, we hopped in a taxi and headed to our destination.
Nighttime in big cities holds a familiar charm. With the ongoing subway construction, traffic in Lanzhou was a bit congested, but we reached our destination within fifteen minutes.
The city lights twinkled, neon signs shimmered, and intoxicating aromas wafted through the air, lingering stubbornly. Ahead, a snack street stretched before us, and above, a sign for the “Zhengning Road Snack Night Market” stood tall.
The scene was a bustling spectacle, noisy and crowded. People thronged through the market, shoulders brushing as they moved. Before even tasting the food, we were overwhelmed by the scents: fragrant, stinky, fishy, spicy, and creamy milk aromas filled the air.
We joined the throng, scanning the stalls on both sides: deep-fried, grilled, poached, stir-fried, cold, hot, fresh, frozen, skewered, arranged, yellow, green, red, white. Every stall was swarming with diners, adults shouting, children clamoring, those with mouths full proclaiming “delicious”, while those in line anxiously awaited their turn. “Old Brand” signs hung above some stalls, while others boasted “Recommended by China on the Tip of the Tongue.” The most popular spot was “Lao Ma’s Egg, Milk, and Fermented Rice Soup” – you couldn’t get in without waiting.
The crowds, the jostling – this was absolutely a testing ground for taste buds, a paradise for foodies.
Not far away stood the Lanzhou Iron Bridge. Illuminated by dazzling lights, it was especially striking with its several arched circular arcs. Young and old alike thronged the bridge, cars flowed continuously, and flashes of light danced in the air. The water of the Yellow River below shimmered with multi-colored reflections, and the lights of the White Pagoda Park across the river were hazy and ethereal. Walking along the riverbank at night, we experienced the charm of Lanzhou, listening to the gentle flow of the Yellow River, its music a symphony of the mother river.
Near our hotel was a great Lanzhou hand-pulled noodle shop. Despite the snacks we’d just enjoyed, I couldn’t resist another bowl. This was the real deal, authentic local fare – delicious!
Back at the hotel, I washed up and settled down for the night. I was tired and struggled to fall asleep.
The Lanzhou Iron Bridge has a history spanning over a century. During the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty, amidst a push for modernization, Karl August Kause, the German manager of the Jardine Matheson & Co. in China, embarked on a sightseeing and investigation tour of Gansu.
During his meeting with Sheng Yun, the Governor General of Shaanxi and Gansu, the two agreed to construct an iron bridge over the Yellow River. This was a significant undertaking. Fortunately, Qing Dynasty regulations allowed local officials to proceed with projects deemed necessary, reporting to the imperial court afterward. By the time Sheng Yun’s report reached the court, the contract with the German firm was already signed.
Gansu in the Qing Dynasty was a wild, undeveloped frontier, and the Yellow River served as a natural barrier, hindering traffic between the two banks of Lanzhou. Although bridges were built in previous dynasties, the relentless currents of the Yellow River destroyed them. People crossing the river lived “as if separated by a vast ocean, the crossing a journey to the gates of hell”. Moreover, constructing bridges and roads was considered a meritorious act, a testament to the achievements of the regional officials.
All materials for the bridge were sourced from Germany. They were shipped by rail to Tianjin Port, then transported onward by mule, horse, and oxen. Given the state of transportation at the time, getting the materials to Lanzhou was a miracle.
After overcoming numerous challenges, the “First Bridge over the Yellow River” was finally completed after two years, marking a significant step in introducing Western technology for the benefit of impoverished rural communities. This historic bridge, still standing after a century, has become a symbol of Lanzhou.
I woke up early and headed to the Yellow River Binhe Park to behold the Yellow River Mother Sculpture. Viewing Lanzhou City in daylight offered a different perspective, showcasing a strong Western flavor in its architecture and the clothing of its inhabitants.
The tranquil city of Lanzhou. The Yellow River flows alongside it, adding to its beauty. A golden ribbon runs through the city. On the pedestrian walkway overlooking the river, people hurry by; on the platform at the foot of the sloping steps, a scene unfolds of spinning tops, the sound of cracking whips echoing in the air.
On the platform along the shoreline, people are engrossed in their square dancing. In contrast to other riverbanks, the land here is still the raw earth of the Yellow River. Quiet Lanzhou residents practice tai chi and tai chi sword in the willow groves, while cruise ships and rafts patiently await tourists on the water.
The sculpture of the Tang Monk and his three disciples seeking scriptures is a captivating sight; the free Lanzhou Waterwheel Garden bears the imprint of Yellow River culture; the mythical creature Bixi diligently supports the “First Bridge over the Yellow River,” standing silently; the screen of flowers along the street, commemorating the marathon race, still blooms;
The “China Lanzhou Beef Noodle” hotel, built on the sidewalk and extending into the Yellow River, enjoys a prime location, showcasing the city’s signature dish.
The area in front of the Yellow River Mother Sculpture is packed with people. Even early in the morning, capturing a panoramic picture of yourself requires lining up.
A stone stele erected by the Lanzhou municipal government reads “Sentiment for the Mother River, the Yellow River Sculpture Corridor,” standing beside the sculpture.
The mother reclines semi-recumbent, her figure curvaceous and full. A child, perched playfully on her belly, laughs. She is cradled by the waves of the Yellow River. Her prominent breasts are revealed, she smiles at her child, her long hair flows freely.
The steadfast and dignified Yellow River Mother slumbers, resting on the river’s waves, gazing at the sunrise and watching her children grow.
This sculpture embodies the tenderness of Lanzhou’s quiet emergence in the west, the grand and restrained grace of the Yellow River nurturing the children of China, a unique and cherished landscape of Lanzhou City.
From the wide expanse of the Yellow River, we gazed across at the White Pagoda Park on the opposite bank. The white pavilions and towers, with their soaring eaves and intricate designs, and the pointed spires and roof ridges reaching for the sky, were breathtaking. The cableway stretched across the river, majestic and grand. The Yellow River churned with its muddy waters, and the buildings along the banks reflected the blue sky and white clouds. The grand image of Lanzhou unfolded before us.
The century-old Iron Bridge rests serenely across the Yellow River. The growing traffic on the road reflects the city’s bustling prosperity. An elderly gentleman, with a flowing white beard and a white cap, strides confidently past the Yellow River Mother Sculpture.
His gaze, you can tell, is filled with benevolence, mingled with devout awe and contented smiles.
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