Ancient Java, Yogyakarta Travel Guide: Touching the Carvings of Time in a Suspended Time

I don’t know when it started,
My travels began to have their own comfort zone,
Repeating to a familiar place,
Fear of accepting new destinations has become a vicious circle of my own. 

Speaking of Indonesia, twice Lombok/Gili Islands, three times Komodo,
Countless times Bali,
My experience in Indonesia seems to be a lot, but I feel like I can only stop here. Bali, east of Bali, Java, the fourth largest island in Indonesia, is a plate I have never set foot on. 

On February 9, 2019, I set foot on the territory of Java for the first time,
Yogyakarta, the origin of Javanese culture,
The earliest memory of “Java” is due to a sentence in the book, “XXXX, I threw it to Java long ago.” It means that I have long forgotten this matter. This sentence originated from the Tang Dynasty or even before. At that time, a large amount of historical materials proved that this country was once a Buddhist country where the sound of chanting was endless and the yellow robes were shining brightly. Chinese monks Faxian and Yijing sailed across the ocean to Java. They risked their lives for their faith or to prove their faith. However, the people of the Tang Dynasty were foolishly convinced that Java was a non-existent country, like the Peach Blossom Spring in Tao Yuanming’s writing, so when people entrusted something to someone, and the trustee forgot to do it, they would make a joke that they had already forgotten to Java.

Visa-free 

Indonesia has implemented a visa-free policy for Chinese citizens since 2016. Initially, it was only limited to entry and exit ports, but now visa-free ports have covered 124 ports, including major city international airports such as Jakarta, Bali, Lombok, Surabaya, Yogyakarta, Manado, Semarang, and Medan. Hold a passport valid for at least six months from the date of entry, it is best to attach round-trip tickets and hotel booking confirmations to cope with inspections. The visa-free period is 30 days and cannot be extended.
 

Visa on Arrival 

Indonesia also implements a visa-on-arrival policy for Chinese citizens. After getting off the plane, find the designated visa-on-arrival (VOA) lane, submit documents and pay $35 to apply for a visa-on-arrival. The visa-on-arrival period is 30 days and can be extended once for 30 days.

Like Vietnam and Cambodia, Indonesia’s border inspection will also have the phenomenon of extortion, but in recent days, the situation has improved significantly. Bilingual reminders in Chinese and English are posted in front of the counter, and staff did not ask me for a tip. 

Flights 

There are currently no direct flights from China to Yogyakarta. Most flights need to transfer in Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur or Singapore. If you are transferring in Kuala Lumpur, the flights are usually AirAsia, a low-cost airline, and the tickets are relatively cheap. Jakarta transfers are usually GA Airlines, with moderate prices and luggage allowance.

Singapore also has AirAsia and Singapore Airlines flights between Yogyakarta and Changi Airport.

I chose to transfer in Singapore, but I stepped on a big thunder this time. I booked a flight from Hangzhou to Singapore on Scoot, then transferred to AirAsia to Yogyakarta. But when I checked in, the staff at the counter told me that because I didn’t buy a connecting flight, Scoot landed at T2 terminal, I needed to transfer to T4 terminal at Changi Airport. I must have a Singapore visa otherwise I can’t go through the normal transfer channel. Since my Singapore visa had already expired, the staff in China didn’t even give me the boarding pass for the first flight. I had no choice but to temporarily buy a Singapore Airlines flight that can transfer directly at T2 terminal.

Network 

Yogyakarta is still considered a relatively developed country in Indonesia. Most restaurants and hotels have WiFi. If you are outdoors, it is recommended to purchase a SIMPATI phone card, which is the best telecommunications company in Indonesia.

Even on the volcano, the signal is very stable. As Indonesia now implements real-name registration, you need to fill in your personal information and activate the phone you bought on Taobao before your trip. 

Safety issues 

Speaking of safety issues in Indonesia, the most worrisome is the anti-Chinese incident 20 years ago. Many friends and relatives around me are worried about anti-Chinese sentiment. Based on my experience traveling to Indonesia so many times, Indonesian people are still very nice, especially this time in Yogyakarta. It may be because everyone has faith. The locals are very simple. It is worth mentioning that Indonesian people love to take pictures, and they are not afraid of tourists’ lenses. 

If I had to use one English word to describe Indonesia, it would be DIVERSE. It is not only reflected in the natural scenery and tourism resources, but also includes natural disasters such as earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and tsunamis. These major natural disasters occur frequently every year, which not only cause casualties, but also may lead to airport closures. In terms of Yogyakarta, it has the most active Mount Merapi in Indonesia. On average, there is a small eruption every 2 to 3 years and a large eruption every 10 to 15 years. Therefore, it is important to pay close attention to the local situation before traveling and adjust your plans accordingly.

Currency Exchange 

Compared with Bali, currency exchange in Yogyakarta is quite inconvenient. There are few ATMs on the street. Generally, a single ATM is in a convenience store, and a row of ATMs in an ATM center is hidden on the basement level of a supermarket like Carrefour. Half of the ATMs support UnionPay withdrawals, so don’t worry about that.

However, it is difficult to see currency exchange shops on the streets of Bali like in Bali. They are usually in shopping malls or supermarkets, and the exchange rate at currency exchange shops at the airport is usually the worst, so it is not recommended to exchange.
 

Consumption

Of all the places I have been to in Indonesia, Yogyakarta has the lowest cost of living. A dinner in Bali can easily cost 100 yuan per person, while in Yogyakarta, you may need to order 3-4 people’s worth of dishes to reach 100 yuan.

For example, oxtail soup, the most famous dish in Indonesia, generally costs about 60 yuan in Bali, but in Yogyakarta, you can get a very large portion of oxtail soup for only 16 yuan. It is worth mentioning that the oxtail soup here is even better than in Bali!

Besides, the shopping malls in Yogyakarta are much better than you think. They completely overshadow the shopping centers in Bali. In Yogyakarta, all kinds of brands are available in the shopping malls.

Accommodation

Yogyakarta is not short of good hotels. Sheraton, Marriott, and even Aman are all here. In line with the cost of living, hotel prices here are also much lower than other places (of course, the Aman Hotel costs 5K per night), generally you can stay in an international five-star hotel for 600 yuan. 

The Sheraton Hotel was built based on the prototype of the Sultan’s Water Palace, showing the religious style of Yogyakarta everywhere. The breakfast place overlooks Mount Merapi.

Drinking attention

As mentioned earlier, 95% of the people in Yogyakarta believe in Islam, so in line with the teachings, this is also a basically alcohol-free area. Except for specific supermarkets like “SuperIndo”, you can hardly buy anything related to alcohol in ordinary convenience stores or even large supermarkets like Carrefour. Bintang Radler with an alcohol content of 2% in Bali has also become an alcohol-free drink in Yogyakarta.

At four o’clock in the morning, the call to prayer swirls over Yogyakarta. It is a way to wake up Muslims.
Those with morning grumpiness should be prepared for this,
Or choose a place to stay far from the prayer tower (basically impossible).
 

I first learned about this place from a Korean variety show Running Man, where Lee Kwang-soo and Jeon So-min were “punished” to go to the cable car “Adrenaline Gondola” on King Island. The cable car was originally built to facilitate local fishermen to catch lobsters on King Island, but now it has become more of an entertainment facility for tourists.

When tourists ride the cable car, large waves can hit their feet. Despite its simplicity, it has not had any accidents in its 20 years of operation.

Source: Internet

It takes about three hours to get from the city center to the island. There are many restaurants at the entrance of King Island, selling lobsters that have just been caught, where you can enjoy lunch.

To get to the cable car, you need to transfer to a local jeepney, because this section of the road has not been repaired at all. Ordinary car tires can’t climb it. 

Jeepney

There are merchants with white beards at the entrance of the Sultan’s Palace, selling some small toys from China in the 1980s and 1990s, such as wooden flutes that imitate bird calls, paper airplanes that flap their wings, happiness is not luxurious in Yogyakarta.

The guards in the palace have serious expressions, but they are not afraid of the camera at all. Batik has been passed down in the palace, showcasing the unique Batik style to tourists.

Yogyakarta, as a special zone in Indonesia, is still under the rule of the Sultan, who lives in this palace. Although the Sultan’s Palace is small, it is exquisite everywhere, and the glorious past is in full view on the dome.

Yogyakarta Water Palace, once a luxurious entertainment venue for the Sultan’s royal family. The Sultan would stand on the building and watch his concubines bathe, and he would choose one who caught his eye and summon her to his room. The Sultan, in order to keep this “garden of happiness” a secret forever, cruelly killed the architect of the water castle.

Outside the Water Palace is a street full of artistic atmosphere, leading all the way to the Lonely Tree Temple. Even ordinary daily objects here exude artistic vibes.

The Prambanan Temple (Candi Prambanan) was built in the mid-9th century and is the largest Hindu temple in Indonesia. It is second only to Angkor Wat in Cambodia in Southeast Asia. The two are quite similar in architectural form. The biggest difference is that the main tower of Angkor Wat is built on a three-tiered base, while Prambanan rises directly from the ground. If you just look at the six main towers, I think Prambanan is slightly better in terms of momentum.

Before the 13th century, the entire Southeast Asian region was heavily influenced by Hinduism. Java was no exception. It built such a grand building near its capital to worship the three main gods: Brahma, Shiva, and Vishnu, as well as the sacred bull Nandi. In the late 13th century, Islam brought by Arabs swept across the Malay Peninsula. Indonesia, across the Strait of Malacca, gradually forgot Hinduism and was assimilated by Muslims.

Today, Indonesia, with the largest Muslim population in the world, still retains many Hindu ruins from before the infiltration of Islamic culture. Prambanan is one of them. Bali, isolated from the outside world during Dutch rule, completely preserved the cultural traditions before the 13th century, becoming a religious island.

In 1991, Prambanan was listed as a World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO, along with another Buddhist site near Yogyakarta – Borobudur.

Extreme fire clouds after the rain and sunset

Mount Merapi is 2911 meters above sea level and is one of the most active volcanoes in Indonesia. On average, there is a small eruption every 2 to 3 years and a large eruption every 10 to 15 years. Among them, the eruption in 1006 AD covered the entire Central Java with volcanic ash, leading to the demise of the Hindu Mataram kingdom and paving the way for Islam to enter Java.

Passing a volcanic museum, it was originally a residential area. On November 5, 2010, which was the largest eruption of Mount Merapi in recent decades, the people in this residential area fled in panic. The belongings left in the houses were melted by the lava. These people donated their destroyed homes to build the current volcanic museum, warning people about the infinite power of nature.
The clock on the wall is still stopped at the moment when the lava spread.

Borobudur is more than 40 kilometers from Yogyakarta City, along with the Great Wall of China, the Taj Mahal of India, and Angkor Wat of Cambodia, it is known as the “Four Great Wonders of Ancient Orient”. Its name, Borobudur, comes from the Sanskrit “Vihara Buddha Ur”, meaning “Buddha Stupa on the Hill”.

The specific construction date of Borobudur is still unknown. It is said to have been built during the prosperous period of the Sailendra Dynasty of Central Java from 750 to 850 AD. The Sailendra Dynasty, with the strength of the entire nation, built Borobudur on a hillside. It was not completed until the reign of the last king of the dynasty, and eventually became the largest Buddhist holy place.

Source: Internet 

Borobudur looks like a pyramid, built on a square base with sides of about 118 meters. It is 9 stories high, with 6 square platforms on the bottom and 3 round platforms on the top. The top layer is a huge round stupa, with stairs on all four sides leading directly to the top, each entrance guarded by stone lions. Looking down from the air, the entire structure looks like a mandala, showing the Buddhist view of the universe. Please note that drones are not allowed in the scenic area.

According to Buddhist thought, the 9-story tower body plus the top layer tower can be divided into three realms of cultivation leading to the Buddhist universe, namely the Kamadhatu (Realm of Desire) represented by the base, the Rupadhatu (Realm of Form) represented by the 5-story tower body, and the Arupadhatu (Realm of Formlessness) represented by the 3-story round top tower and the central Buddha tower. Among them, the Realm of Desire is where sentient beings are controlled by desires, mainly referring to sexual desire. The Realm of Form is above the Realm of Desire, referring to the abode of beings who have abandoned desires. The Realm of Formlessness is a place where beings practice without desires or attachments. Therefore, walking up the stairs from the base to the top symbolizes the process of going from the Realm of Desire and the Realm of Form, which are obsessed with color and form, to the realm of bliss.

Time seems to stand still here. The attire and duties of the palace guards have not changed much in hundreds of years. The ancient palace gate still has traffic jams during peak hours. Gentle gamelan music and energetic disco music echo in the city,
Car horns and horse hooves wander through the streets,
The call to prayer at four o’clock in the morning will also swirl over the city. In just a few days, from getting to know each other, to getting acquainted, from being a stranger, to being infatuated. In a nutshell, Yogyakarta is worth my return.