“What is there in Laos? It’s about finding something, that’s why you have to set off. Isn’t that what traveling is all about?”
——Haruki Murakami, “You Say, What Is There in Laos?”
With the same question, I ended my 3-month stay in Thailand and embarked on a 28-day wandering journey through Laos. I took a boat from the Thai-Lao border, sailed up the Mekong River, and finally entered the ancient Khmer country of Angkor Wat in the Four Thousand Islands.
Recalling my journey through Laos, I searched for the Plain of Jars in Luang Namtha; I indulged in the mountain and countryside beauty of Vang Vieng; I visited the Wat Phou Temple in Champasak, but what I remember most is the alms-giving in the morning in Luang Prabang, sitting at the entrance of a French bakery waiting for the first batch of croissants. When the warm sun shines on Sisavangvong Road, shining on the monks in orange robes, everything in my eyes is golden at that moment.
For me, Luang Prabang is a place that has few rivals in Southeast Asia. Here, ancient Eastern culture coexists with elegant Western romance.
Luang Prabang is the capital of Luang Prabang Province. It is the ancient capital of Laos and a famous ancient city and Buddhist center in Laos. It is one of the cities where traditional customs are best preserved. Theravada Buddhism is prevalent, and many temples built at that time are still preserved. There are more than 30 temples in the old city alone. The Luang Prabang old city was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995.
Luang Prabang is located at the confluence of the Nam Khan River and the Mekong River. It is shaped like an “L”-shaped peninsula with an area of less than 10 square kilometers. The urban area extends along the left bank of the Mekong River, surrounded by mountains and water. The climate is cool, the terrain is flat, and the average altitude is 290 meters. There are numerous temples and monks in the small city.
Stroll through the city, and you will find ancient temples and colonial French villas side by side. As dusk falls, the evening glow in the sky on Mount Phousi and the blue waves of the Mekong River blend together. Wander around the night market, where various handicrafts and enthusiastic vendors are everywhere. In this city, monks in orange robes, white-walled red-roofed Western buildings, red and blue night market canopies, and colorful sunsets create stunning pictures.
Luang Prabang is perfect for backpackers. In general, Laos is a very relaxed country. Just wander around the streets, enjoy the breeze under the shade of trees, drink the famous Lao beer, admire the scenery of the Mekong River, experience Lao SPA, and visit temples to deeply experience the lives of the Lao people. Laziness is the way to go.
Luang Prabang is rich in tourism resources. Whether you want to experience the local culture or enjoy the natural scenery, you can find it all here.
In the old city, which has been rated as a World Cultural Heritage Site, there is Wat Xieng Thong, which is engraved with the Tree of Life, the luxurious and grand Royal Palace Museum, Wat Mai, which enshrines the Golden Buddha, Mount Phousi, the city’s highest point, where you can enjoy the sunset, and the ancient Wat Visounarat.
If you go a little further out, you can take a boat on the Mekong River to Pak Ou Caves for an adventure and taste rice wine at the “Whiskey Village” along the way. You can jump into the green waters of the stunning Kuang Si Falls and refresh your body and mind. You can also go to Tat Sae Waterfall for a SPA for your soul.
Wat Xieng Thong
Wat Xieng Thong is one of the most magnificent temples in Luang Prabang. It is located near the Mekong River and was built by King Setthathirat in 1560. It was a royal property until 1975.
The main hall represents the classic Luang Prabang temple architectural style. The hall is supported by beautifully decorated wooden pillars that support a roof covered with Dharma wheels. The famous “Tree of Life” on the outer wall of the rear hall has attracted many tourists to stop and admire it.
The temple’s doors and lintels are covered with intricate patterns, creating a sharp and bold contrast with the black temple walls. The outside is also engraved with gold patterns. The patterns on the pillars or lintels are mostly gorgeous tropical vines, while the doors are adorned with sculptures of graceful fairies or Buddha statues with delicate lines and curves.
Royal Palace Museum
The Royal Palace Museum was built in 1904 and is located in the city center. It was the residence of King Sisavang Vong of the Lan Xang Kingdom and his family. After the abolition of the monarchy in 1975, the palace was converted into the Royal Palace Museum.
The museum’s architectural style combines classic Lao charm and French style. It is in a cross shape, built on multi-level platforms, majestic, and a luxurious palace. The entire palace is golden and dazzling, with elegant and luxurious decorations inside.
It now houses many relics of the Lan Xang Kingdom and national treasures. The most precious Lao national treasure, the Phra Bang Golden Buddha, can also be seen here.
In the palace, you can see the former main hall, meeting hall, study, collection room, living room, etc. The exhibits include royal religious articles, weapons, sculptures, and paintings from centuries past, making it a must-visit for anyone wanting to learn about Luang Prabang and its royal history.
There are dress requirements for entering the palace. Shoulders and belly buttons cannot be exposed, and the lower body cannot be exposed above the knees. If your clothes do not meet the requirements, you can rent them at the entrance. You must take off your shoes when entering the museum, photography is not allowed, and personal bags and cameras must be stored outside.
Wat Mai
Wat Mai is one of the most famous temples in Luang Prabang. It is also the largest and most ornate temple here. Inside the temple is a Buddha statue cast from emeralds.
The temple’s roof is in the typical five-story wooden structure style of Luang Prabang, with beautifully decorated wooden pillars and ornate gilded relief walls. The most appealing feature is the golden wood carvings on the temple’s doors and walls, including the entire Hindu epic Ramayana, which narrates the life of Buddha and the story of the Lao rain god, as well as scenes from the Ramayana and rural life. During major festivals, the Phra Bang Buddha is brought from the Royal Palace Museum and placed here for worship by believers.
Mount Phousi
Mount Phousi is located opposite the Royal Palace Museum and is the highest point in Luang Prabang. The mountain is not very high, and it is not tiring to climb. There are 328 steps leading to the top, where there is the Phousi Pagoda with a golden spire. The palace is at the foot of the mountain. From the top of the mountain, you can enjoy a 360-degree view of the entire Luang Prabang old city.
Standing on the top of the mountain and looking around, the houses in the city are orderly arranged, the streets are neat and tidy, the lush coconut trees cover the brick-red roofs of the western-style buildings, exuding a unique tropical charm. The old city does not have any tall buildings. Temples, one- or two-story houses with beautiful spires, and so on, are hidden among the lush trees. You can also see the beautiful Mekong River and Nam Khan River. With a unique tropical charm, it feels like entering a paradise, peaceful and tranquil.
Kuang Si Waterfall
Kuang Si Waterfall is the largest waterfall in the Luang Prabang area, about 30 kilometers south of Luang Prabang. It is a group of waterfalls composed of a large waterfall and several smaller waterfalls below the mountain. The total height of the waterfall is 100 meters, cascading down from the limestone peaks and forming pools below, creating a fairyland-like azure blue. The entire scenery is picturesque, somewhat similar to the calcified pools of the Yellow Dragon in Sichuan, dreamy and ethereal.
Besides admiring the beauty, the most fun activity at Kuang Si Waterfall is rope swinging. The tree trunks by the water pool extend into the water, becoming natural jumping platforms. Jump from the big tree into the crystal-clear water for endless fun.
Even if you don’t like rope swinging, it is very enjoyable and refreshing to play in the clear blue water and swim. Additionally, the water is rich in minerals, and there are small fish that eat dead skin, which is very beneficial for the skin. Soaking in the pool is like getting an all-natural SPA, full of fun.
Pak Ou Caves
Pak Ou Caves are located on the Mekong River bank north of Luang Prabang, about 25 kilometers from the old city of Luang Prabang. There are two caves at the bottom of the limestone cliffs facing the river, filled with Buddha statues of various styles and sizes (most are typical Luang Prabang-style standing Buddhas).
The Thousand Buddha Caves are divided into the upper cave, Tham Phoum, and the lower cave, Tham Ting. The two caves house tens of thousands of Buddha statues, with 8,000 registered. The statues vary in size, and their shapes and forms are also different.
This was once the place where the king prayed for rain. Every year before the rainy season, a grand rain-praying ceremony is held here, asking Buddha to bless the year with good weather and a bumper harvest.
On the way to Pak Ou Caves, you will usually stop at a small village on the banks of the Mekong River. The most popular village is Ban Sang Hai (Whiskey Village), where you can see many hand-operated looms and handicrafts such as scarves, tapestries, etc. There is also a homemade sticky rice wine you can taste, and the owner will enthusiastically introduce the winemaking process.
Besides experiencing the alms-giving in the morning that is a must-do when visiting Luang Prabang, the best way to explore the city is by bicycle, wandering through the peninsula’s stories of monks’ lives and children’s games.
Luang Prabang is also a great place to relax and unwind. There are many SPA shops in the old city or hotels that can bring joy to your body and mind. In addition, some popular activities in Luang Prabang are centered around the surrounding countryside, such as jungle trekking, kayaking, or visiting elephant sanctuaries. It is worth mentioning that more and more green and environmentally friendly recreational activities are gradually becoming fashionable and trendy choices. These will be the perfect choice for experiencing the culture of Luang Prabang.
Alms-Giving in the Morning
Alms-giving is a traditional custom that Theravada Buddhist monks have maintained for thousands of years. It has a long history and is common in Theravada Buddhist countries in Southeast Asia. However, because the Luang Prabang old city is a World Heritage Site with many temples concentrated together, the alms-giving here is known worldwide.
Alms-giving is usually around 5 to 6 in the morning. No matter the wind or rain, monks walk barefoot every day, carrying their alms bowls and wearing orange robes. They walk along fixed routes, calmly and peacefully receiving gifts from believers and tourists. Believers lay out mats, kneel by the roadside, and offer the first pot of rice they cook every morning to the monks. Monks have always kept the rule of relying on food they receive from alms-giving to survive each day. They also pray for people every day. The whole process is sacred and peaceful, leaving people feeling touched, understanding why the Lao people are so kind and simple.
To show respect for the monks, your head should not be higher than the monks’ alms bowls during alms-giving.
The specific time for alms-giving varies from season to season. You can ask your hotel for the exact time.
Photographing the alms-giving process is allowed, but you must not disturb the monks or the whole process, and you must not approach the monks.
When preparing for alms-giving, there will be “good people” on the roadside providing mats, sticky rice, etc., but it’s not free. Remember to agree on the price first.
Night Market Snacking and Shopping
The night market is located in front of Sisavangvong Road in front of the Royal Palace Museum. It mainly sells Lao traditional products, with hundreds of vendors selling scarves, T-shirts, clothes, shoes, Hmong patchwork blankets, paper products, silver ware, bags, pottery, paper lanterns, bamboo crafts, and many other beautiful products.
The vendors at the Luang Prabang night market don’t shout loudly or bargain. Even if they can’t sell, they will still smile without forcing a sale. This might be the quietest market in Asia. There is a night market food stall in the small alley next to the main street. You can come here to fill your stomach and have a juice after you get tired of shopping.
Sunset Cruise
As the longest river connecting many Southeast Asian countries, the Mekong River can also be said to be the most important part of Luang Prabang.
The Mekong River may not be as clear as other rivers, but it carries immense power. Taking a boat on the Mekong River to experience it up close in Luang Prabang is a must-do for any traveler. There are many boats to choose from, and even chartering one is not very expensive.
Sailing on the river, watching the water surface burnished with a layer of gold dust by the setting sun. When the sun sets, birds return to their nests, and the coconut trees and distant mountains become silhouettes. This is Lao romance.
Rice Farm
If you long for the green fields far from the city, then the organic rice farm in Luang Prabang will let you experience Luang Prabang’s rural life.
You will have the opportunity to immerse yourself in understanding how local people grow rice and participate in seasonal activities on the farm. This is a perfect trip for tourists who want to experience local life and learn about Lao culture, traditions, and practices.
Luang Prabang Rural Experience Spend a day outside the city at Living Land Farm, working with locals and learning about the ins and outs of farm life. Suitable for all ages and skill levels, it’s an ideal way to experience local life.
Reference website: https://www.livinglandlao.org/
Buffalo Farm
If Kuang Si Waterfall is on your itinerary, don’t miss a buffalo farm called “LAOS BUFFALO DAIRY” along the way. It is famous for its authentic and additive-free ice cream.
If you have time, take some time to visit. The entire farm is well-managed. You can also experience hand-feeding calves and milking cows. After that, you can taste fresh dairy products such as buffalo milk cheese and cheesecake. You will also learn about the positive changes that this non-profit organization brings to the local community.
Reference website: http://www.laosbuffalodairy.com/
Handicraft Workshop
Besides spending the hot afternoons by the pool or at the SPA in your hotel, OCK POP TOK, a handicraft workshop located in the Luang Prabang old city and overlooking the Mekong River, is also a great choice.
You can spend two hours or more here experiencing traditional Lao crafts, such as tie-dyeing, wax dyeing, bamboo weaving, silk weaving, and so on.
Under the guidance of experienced teachers, you will create memorable handicrafts, such as a traditional square bamboo fan, a naturally dyed scarf, or tribal decorations. It is worth mentioning that the workshop itself has a riverside cafe. Even if you don’t participate in any production courses, you can still come here to experience it.
When traveling to Luang Prabang, you can’t miss out on trying the local cuisine. French flavors, local specialties, and cuisines from other countries are all available. If you are craving local noodles or grilled meat, the morning market near the Royal Palace Museum is a great place.
There are many excellent restaurants in the historic and cultural heritage old city, especially colonial French restaurants, which are very stylish. The ubiquitous cafes are also a characteristic of Luang Prabang. Almost every cafe is decorated in a stylish manner, representing the Lao people’s yearning for a slower pace of life.
Utopia Bar & Restaurant
Address: Ban Aphay, Kingkitsarath Road, Luang Prabang 0600, Laos
This bar and restaurant can be considered a pilgrimage site for backpackers. It’s filled with comfortable armchairs, cushions, low tables, and hookahs. Cool down with a fruit milkshake or cocktail, play a board game, take a yoga class, or let yourself get lost in the candlelight at sunset.
Manda de Laos
Address: 10 Norrassan Road, Unit 1 Ban Thatluang, Luang Prabang 0600, Laos
The environment of this restaurant is as beautiful as a work of art, especially the century-old lotus pond in the courtyard. The dishes are also carefully designed, and the local cuisine blends with French style, making it visually appealing.
Saffron Coffee
Address: Khem Khong Road | Ban Wat Nong, Luang Prabang 0600, Laos
This coffee shop is trendy and modern and is the perfect place to enjoy breakfast. Black and white photographic works are hung around, the Western-style light meals are well-cooked, and the coffee is excellent, with friendly service. You can choose to sit inside or outside to eat.
Le Banneton Cafe
Address: 46 Sakkhaline Road, Luang Prabang 0600, Laos
This French bakery has a peaceful atmosphere, with its wooden building retaining a colonial feel. The croissants are probably the best in Laos, and other pastries are equally excellent, including chocolate bread, fruit milkshakes, sandwiches, quiches, and homemade fruit ice balls.
Silk Road Cafe
Address: Ock Pop Tok | Ban Saylom, Luang Prabang 0600, Laos
This cafe, a true “oasis,” is hidden within the OCK POP TOK handicraft workshop mentioned above. It is a hidden gem, with a picturesque view of the Mekong River. In addition to coffee and desserts, the cafe also offers Lao-style main courses that are worth recommending.
From budget-friendly backpacker hostels to charming guesthouses with a personal touch, from stylish colonial villas to 5-star international luxury hotels, Luang Prabang may not be large, but it can be considered a paradise for those who love hotels, especially for those who want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy a piece of heaven. Here are some beautiful hotels that you can add to your bucket list.
Amantaka
Address: 55/3 Kingkitsarath Road Ban Thongchaleun , Luang Prabang, Laos
Amantaka is located in a graceful French-style building in the UNESCO-protected town of Luang Prabang. Its style is ethereal and elegant, with its decor and furnishings reflecting the city’s culture and French colonial history.
The resort is located south of Mount Phousi, within walking distance of nearby boutiques, bakeries, restaurants, and the city’s main streets. The legendary night market, the picturesque Mekong River, and the former royal palace are also nearby.
The hotel building is also not newly built. It was renovated from an old French colonial hospital. It faithfully reflects the architecture of Luang Prabang in its former years. From the house background to the location, it is closely connected to the history and pulse of the old city.
Rosewood Luang Prabang
Address: Nauea Village, Luang Prabang, Laos PDR
Rosewood Luang Prabang is nestled in a lush jungle. The hotel was designed and built by Bill Bensley, a world-renowned American architect in Bangkok, under the guidance of UNESCO, transforming Rosewood Luang Prabang into a hill station mansion that just entered the early 20th century.
It is surrounded by Luang Prabang’s historic royal residences, and a river that originates from a waterfall runs through the heart of this exotic home. The hotel is inspired by the French-Lao architecture that has made this small city famous, with its interior decorated in the style of ancient temples, while the luxurious tented villas are a tribute to the spirit of exploration.
The hotel has 23 spacious guest rooms, including four deluxe rooms, four specialty suites, three riverside villas, six pool villas, and six luxury tents. Each room, suite, and villa is adjacent to the river, offering breathtaking views.
The 75-square-meter luxury tented villas have private dining areas and wraparound decks. Lao tradition and French colonial style are ingeniously blended through the hotel’s overall design and architecture, as evidenced by the use of local materials and the inspiration for local art decorations.
Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao
Address: 3 PO Box 50, Luang Prabang, PDR 84330, Laos
Belmond is one of the most luxurious hotels in Luang Prabang. It sits on a small hill in Luang Prabang, offering exceptional views overlooking the old city, and its overall architecture is a World Heritage Site.
Upon arriving here, you may finally understand the true meaning of “slow.” The hotel’s decor is dominated by dark wood, prompting you to slow down and feel a sense of reverence as you enter, as if you can feel the power of Zen Buddhism.
The hotel sits atop a mountain, and the stunning mountain views will leave a lasting impression. Additionally, you can admire the surrounding pagodas and observe monks in red robes collecting alms every morning.
The hotel’s cuisine has always been acclaimed. For dinner, you can choose to sit in the extra comfortable indoor area or enjoy the intimacy of nature outdoors and enjoy the warm sunshine. At the same time, you can also admire the beautiful scenery of Mount Phousi. You also have the opportunity to experience a romantic candlelit dinner, where you can look around and see beautiful lanterns hanging on the trees in the hotel garden.
What is there in Laos?
Laos has things that only Laos has, and your life will be the way it is only because of your life. Travel may have fatigue and disappointment, but there will definitely be something!
As the only landlocked country in Southeast Asia, perhaps some people find Laos bland, while others find Laos not much different from other Southeast Asian countries, so it’s better to go to Thailand or Vietnam. But for me, every country, every city has its own color.
Will I go back again? The answer is yes.
I like the slow pace of life in Laos. There seems to be more time than I can use, and I can use it to think about more things.
“To travel to a foreign land alone, just breathing,
Looking at the scenery, you feel like you’ve grown up a little bit!
Will those landscapes help in any way? I don’t know.
The results may not be very useful. Maybe it’s just a memory.
But that’s what traveling is all about, isn’t it? Isn’t that what life is all about?”〜 Haruki Murakami
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